video...4-3-10
Moderators: Pike Ridge Beagles, Aaron Bartlett
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Blubeagle
Re: video...4-3-10
the 4 hounds in this video...will be part of the future of my kennel!...they will be hunted together for years to come!!...so why not let them..or make them get it together now???...like i said earlier...i dont have enough running time to take them all solo!!!...(who does?)...again...i thought they done pretty good for their age...and considering they havent ran without an older dog...except 2 times!!!...and it was obvious that they were not just ...ME TOO...barking!!!!...they had the rabbit...and circled it!!!...the fact is...they jumped more rabbits than the video shows...and circled them several times!!!...they were kinda rough!!!...but they are young...and having to figure it out on their own!!!...i have raised a lot of pups..and some went on to be very good dogs for me and my style!!...so i think that if i keep running these like i am...it will get better and better!!!...i will put them back with the older dogs when season starts next fall...and i think they will be ready!!...by the way...one of the tri colored...is a rabbit jumping fool!!!...LOL...but they all have their moments!!!...ok its all good...just wanted some more feed back!!...thanks
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Bunnyblaster
- Posts: 1768
- Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 10:18 am
- Location: Belding, MI
Re: video...4-3-10
I think these guys are just telling you that some solo time will improve their skills and their confidence level. I'm like you and don't have a ton of time to be taking out dogs one at a time but there are also times when it is better to take one today and one tomorrow as opposed to taking both out both days so they can learn to do it on their own a little better too. I look at it this way, and again just for myself........if my pack runs great but only as a pack then what happens if I loose a member? Do I have to find a dog that fits exactly like that dog did or should I be able to run them with one missing and still get the job done. I try to think of it in relation to option #2 because you just never know. I just don't want to have dogs that always count on another in the pack doing the jumping, or the check work, etc..........I want them each to be able to all do it to the best of their own abilities.........that's all. Remember, take the criticism for what it is........just a constructive opinion based on what we can see..............in other words if you don't want it, don't ask because remember it is still just an opinion.
Bunnyblaster
"You can't change the past but you can ruin the present by worrying about the future."
"You can't change the past but you can ruin the present by worrying about the future."
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Blubeagle
Re: video...4-3-10
oh i appreciate the opinions of others...that is why i asked!!!...i understand what the guys are saying...and i know that putting them on rabbit under any circumstances or situation will improve them!!!..and i will shake it up a little and run them in different scenarios!!...i know these hounds...i can take anyone of them out of the pack...or i cant put a couple different dogs in with them..and they still get it done!!!...and you have to remember...the red tick is only 3 months old!!!...she goes with me no matter what other dogs i take!!!...she is just starting to stay up with them a little bit...and she will go to the others ...and stay out there for a little while!!!...i have been working with her with some tame rabbits!!!...it will all come together!!!...by the time this fall comes around...these 4 hounds will be a tough little pack!!!...JMO...i like to run my hounds with other hounds...right now this is what i am working with!!!...i will run these with any other 1 year old hounds out there!!!...i think any one of them could hold their own!!!...(except the 3 month old)...LOL....maybe the video didnt really do them justice!!!...i guess you just had to be there!!...LOL...no excuses but it was dry and kind of windy that day!!!...LOL...its all good!!!
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SouthernBeagles
- Posts: 417
- Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2002 1:41 pm
Re: video...4-3-10
Boy! you had one little tri colored dog looking like it was doing a great job from what I saw! (not knocking the others but that one stood out to me)
I agree with the others.....solo as much as possible or at the very least brace two at a time when you can. Will give the less advanced pups more confidence if they are running the rabbit and not just playing catch up. Will also help you figue out who is doing the work, who is feeding off the others or "me too'ing", who can run their own rabbits, and who can't handle the pack pressure and is screwing up the races (not saying thats happening).
Good luck in the fall with them!
I agree with the others.....solo as much as possible or at the very least brace two at a time when you can. Will give the less advanced pups more confidence if they are running the rabbit and not just playing catch up. Will also help you figue out who is doing the work, who is feeding off the others or "me too'ing", who can run their own rabbits, and who can't handle the pack pressure and is screwing up the races (not saying thats happening).
Good luck in the fall with them!
Don't squat with your spurs on!
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Blubeagle
Re: video...4-3-10
thanks...i will continue to work with all of them...like i stated before...the red tick is only 3 months old...so she is not really in the equation just yet!!!...but the other 3...i will work with and run in different combinations!!!...i think they all will be good!!!...i guess we will see!!...thanks again!!SouthernBeagles wrote:Boy! you had one little tri colored dog looking like it was doing a great job from what I saw! (not knocking the others but that one stood out to me)
I agree with the others.....solo as much as possible or at the very least brace two at a time when you can. Will give the less advanced pups more confidence if they are running the rabbit and not just playing catch up. Will also help you figue out who is doing the work, who is feeding off the others or "me too'ing", who can run their own rabbits, and who can't handle the pack pressure and is screwing up the races (not saying thats happening).
Good luck in the fall with them!
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Blubeagle
Re: video...4-3-10
i have the perfect puppy starter...my 10 year old red&white...she has slowed down in her old age...i started the two tri-colored with her...but they are faster than her now!!!
Re: video...4-3-10
They looked pretty good. To be honest though I think 1 and maybe two of those pups were doing all of the work. Heres a video of Geena at about 5 1/2 months old. I'm a firm believer in soloing a pup.
Geena is out of Speedy Sport blood. The breeder is a friend of mine who as always told me how fast that Sport stuff starts and once they do start how fast they progress. I didn't believe it untel I had a few pups off that line my self. Then I realized how soon they circle there own rabbit.....Deerhost
Geena is out of Speedy Sport blood. The breeder is a friend of mine who as always told me how fast that Sport stuff starts and once they do start how fast they progress. I didn't believe it untel I had a few pups off that line my self. Then I realized how soon they circle there own rabbit.....Deerhost
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Blubeagle
Re: video...4-3-10
thats a nice video and pup you have there Deerhost...just for my own curiosity...which pups do you all say was doing all the work????...the red tick obviously didnt do much...(3 months old)...but the other 3 stuck together good...worked together...all picked up some checks...and were jockeying for the front...just wondering???
Re: video...4-3-10
First of all, a 3 month old pup should not be in the field!!! Everyone knows that a pup should not be in the field until it has had its complete series of shots. Shots should be given at 6, 9, 12, 15, and 18 wks. YOu are setting yourself of for parvo for sure.And that is a fact not an opinion.
OAK HILL BLUETICK BEAGLES
Re: video...4-3-10
oakhill wrote:
And that is a fact not an opinion.
thats what I did with my pup thunder. I waited till he had all his shots then into the wild. But he has not had his rabies yet. That will be soon. I wait till they are 6 months old for that.Missouri rabbits running for their lives!!!!
Give us a like on FACEBOOK search for Track Em Down Kennels
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Blubeagle
Re: video...4-3-10
well...i have her and all my dogs current on all their shots...so im not really worried about that!!!...so...i just watched all the video again...and I CANT SEE IT!!!!...again...which two do you all say is doing ALL THE WORK???...i see all 3 of them in there working hard!!!...all contributing!!!...so seriously which 2???...and then i can give a little special attention to the one that is lacking!!!...thanks for your concern!!!...and by the way...what should i do with a 3 month old pup???...keep it in a box until 18 weeks???...i personally have never had a problem out of a pup that was current on all its shots!!!...i guess there is always a first time!!!
Re: video...4-3-10
One article...
NATURAL PROTECTION?
When puppies are born, they are completely unable to make antibodies against any infectious invader. They would be totally unprotected except that nature has created a system to protect them. Their mother secretes a special milk for the first day or two after giving birth. This milk is called "colostrum." It contains all the antibodies that the mother dog has circulating in her own body and in this way, she gives her own immune experience to her off-spring. These antibodies are protective until they wear off sometime in the first 4 months of the puppy’s life.
How much colostrum an individual puppy gets depends on its birth order and how strong a nurser it is; not all puppies get the same amount of antibodies. Every nine days the antibody levels possessed by the puppies drops by half. When the antibody level drops to a certain level, they no longer have enough antibody to protect them and if they are exposed to a large enough number of viral particles, they will get infected.
We recommend that puppies be restricted from public outdoor areas
until their vaccination series is completed at age 16 weeks.
There is a good week or so period during which the puppy has no antibody protection leftover from its mother but still is not yet competent to respond to vaccination. This window is where even the most well cared for puppies get infected.
Second article...
Guidelines for young puppies:
1. Do not take the puppy to the front yard, park, for a walk around the block, or to pet stores. These are all places where infected dogs have been or presently are.
2. Only have the puppy around adult dogs that YOU KNOW are current on vaccinations. There should be no contact with stray dogs or dogs that you are not sure of.
3. Do not let the puppy be exposed to any other puppies. These pups could be incubating the disease (and therefore be contagious) without showing signs of illness.
4. Always wash your hands after handling any dog.
Vaccination is the most effective preventive measure for canine parvovirus disease. A properly immunized dog will have circulating antibodies in the blood that will destroy parvovirus following exposure. Dogs remain HIGHLY SUSCEPTIBLE to parvo until 2-4 weeks after the last injection of the immunization series.
The Role of Maternal Antibody in Puppy Immunization
Maternal antibodies are antibodies against viruses which are passed from the mother to the puppies through the “first milk” or colostrum. They provide the puppy with an immediate temporary or “passive” immunity. The mother obtains these antibodies from prior vaccination or by natural exposure to parvovirus. However, maternal antibody is a two-edged sword; it protects the puppy against disease early in life, but it also blocks active immunization (the puppy's immune response to vaccinations). In the case of parvovirus, maternal antibody can interfere with vaccination for as long as 14 to 16 weeks of age in some pups. A refractory period can exist in some pups where very low, almost undetectable levels of maternal antibody will inhibit the vaccination process but will NOT PREVENT parvovirus infection. Since the level of maternal antbody varies from puppy to puppy, IT IS IMPORTANT TO BEGIN VACCINATION AT AN EARLY AGE AND REPEAT EVERY 3-4 WEEKS UNTIL THE PUPPY IS AT LEAST 16-18 WEEKS OLD
third article..
Prevention
Vaccination is the key to prevention. Puppies are vaccinated every 2 to 4 weeks beginning at 8 weeks of age until 16-20 weeks of age. Regardless of the vaccination protocol, the risk of exposure and development of disease exists during the period of susceptibility when maternal antibodies decrease and the development of active immunity by vaccination is not complete. Yearly boosters are strongly recommended for all adult canines. Consult your veterinarian regarding individual vaccination recommendations. Dogs surviving from infection appear to have life-long immunity. Environmental clean-up and disinfecting all exposed surfaces is recommended in the face of clinical disease.
fourth article...
Vaccination is recommended to prevent canine parvovirus. However, vaccination does not ensure protection from the disease in all cases. There are two types of vaccine available: inactivated and live. Puppies should be vaccinated at 8 weeks of age, and then every 3 or 4 weeks until 4 months of age. Puppies who are 16 weeks or older should receive 3 vaccinations, 3–4 weeks apart. It is important to make sure all dogs are up to date with immunizations.
Good hygiene is also important to prevent infection. CPV is a resilient virus and can live on some surfaces for more than a year. A bleach solution containing 1 part bleach and 30 parts water (1:30) is necessary to kill the virus.
Care should be exercised when exposing a puppy or dog to areas where other dogs congregate, such as parks, highway rest areas, obedience classes, kennels, and grooming facilities. Owners should prevent dogs from coming into contact with the feces of other dogs. Proper disposal of waste matter can help prevent the spread of CPV infection.
Do a google search. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to know that pups are very susceptible to these viruses. You might be lucky and not get parvo but if you are unlucky and get it you might not ever get it out of your kennel as it is hard to get rid of. Just thought you might like to know what could happen.
NATURAL PROTECTION?
When puppies are born, they are completely unable to make antibodies against any infectious invader. They would be totally unprotected except that nature has created a system to protect them. Their mother secretes a special milk for the first day or two after giving birth. This milk is called "colostrum." It contains all the antibodies that the mother dog has circulating in her own body and in this way, she gives her own immune experience to her off-spring. These antibodies are protective until they wear off sometime in the first 4 months of the puppy’s life.
How much colostrum an individual puppy gets depends on its birth order and how strong a nurser it is; not all puppies get the same amount of antibodies. Every nine days the antibody levels possessed by the puppies drops by half. When the antibody level drops to a certain level, they no longer have enough antibody to protect them and if they are exposed to a large enough number of viral particles, they will get infected.
We recommend that puppies be restricted from public outdoor areas
until their vaccination series is completed at age 16 weeks.
There is a good week or so period during which the puppy has no antibody protection leftover from its mother but still is not yet competent to respond to vaccination. This window is where even the most well cared for puppies get infected.
Second article...
Guidelines for young puppies:
1. Do not take the puppy to the front yard, park, for a walk around the block, or to pet stores. These are all places where infected dogs have been or presently are.
2. Only have the puppy around adult dogs that YOU KNOW are current on vaccinations. There should be no contact with stray dogs or dogs that you are not sure of.
3. Do not let the puppy be exposed to any other puppies. These pups could be incubating the disease (and therefore be contagious) without showing signs of illness.
4. Always wash your hands after handling any dog.
Vaccination is the most effective preventive measure for canine parvovirus disease. A properly immunized dog will have circulating antibodies in the blood that will destroy parvovirus following exposure. Dogs remain HIGHLY SUSCEPTIBLE to parvo until 2-4 weeks after the last injection of the immunization series.
The Role of Maternal Antibody in Puppy Immunization
Maternal antibodies are antibodies against viruses which are passed from the mother to the puppies through the “first milk” or colostrum. They provide the puppy with an immediate temporary or “passive” immunity. The mother obtains these antibodies from prior vaccination or by natural exposure to parvovirus. However, maternal antibody is a two-edged sword; it protects the puppy against disease early in life, but it also blocks active immunization (the puppy's immune response to vaccinations). In the case of parvovirus, maternal antibody can interfere with vaccination for as long as 14 to 16 weeks of age in some pups. A refractory period can exist in some pups where very low, almost undetectable levels of maternal antibody will inhibit the vaccination process but will NOT PREVENT parvovirus infection. Since the level of maternal antbody varies from puppy to puppy, IT IS IMPORTANT TO BEGIN VACCINATION AT AN EARLY AGE AND REPEAT EVERY 3-4 WEEKS UNTIL THE PUPPY IS AT LEAST 16-18 WEEKS OLD
third article..
Prevention
Vaccination is the key to prevention. Puppies are vaccinated every 2 to 4 weeks beginning at 8 weeks of age until 16-20 weeks of age. Regardless of the vaccination protocol, the risk of exposure and development of disease exists during the period of susceptibility when maternal antibodies decrease and the development of active immunity by vaccination is not complete. Yearly boosters are strongly recommended for all adult canines. Consult your veterinarian regarding individual vaccination recommendations. Dogs surviving from infection appear to have life-long immunity. Environmental clean-up and disinfecting all exposed surfaces is recommended in the face of clinical disease.
fourth article...
Vaccination is recommended to prevent canine parvovirus. However, vaccination does not ensure protection from the disease in all cases. There are two types of vaccine available: inactivated and live. Puppies should be vaccinated at 8 weeks of age, and then every 3 or 4 weeks until 4 months of age. Puppies who are 16 weeks or older should receive 3 vaccinations, 3–4 weeks apart. It is important to make sure all dogs are up to date with immunizations.
Good hygiene is also important to prevent infection. CPV is a resilient virus and can live on some surfaces for more than a year. A bleach solution containing 1 part bleach and 30 parts water (1:30) is necessary to kill the virus.
Care should be exercised when exposing a puppy or dog to areas where other dogs congregate, such as parks, highway rest areas, obedience classes, kennels, and grooming facilities. Owners should prevent dogs from coming into contact with the feces of other dogs. Proper disposal of waste matter can help prevent the spread of CPV infection.
Do a google search. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to know that pups are very susceptible to these viruses. You might be lucky and not get parvo but if you are unlucky and get it you might not ever get it out of your kennel as it is hard to get rid of. Just thought you might like to know what could happen.
OAK HILL BLUETICK BEAGLES
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Blubeagle
Re: video...4-3-10
yep...thanks oakhill...i will have to take that into consideration!!...as i have said...never had a problem with one current on its shots!!!...i have had it here years ago...and i know it stays in the ground!!!...she will be 16 weeks old this coming Sunday...so i almost have it licked!!!...RIGHT????....again thanks for your concern about this!!!!...but anyway...which one of the three should i be giving the special attention to???...i seriously cant see any of them lacking anything ...except experience!!...i want all the feed back i can get!!!
Re: video...4-3-10
video is one of the hardest ways to judge what a dog is really doing. Looks different on video than it does in person.
Missouri rabbits running for their lives!!!!
Give us a like on FACEBOOK search for Track Em Down Kennels
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Blubeagle
Re: video...4-3-10
i will definitely agree with that...lol...you all apparently see something i didnt see at the time in the field!!!...and i have watched the video many times...and still dont see what everyone has seen...they will tell me looked like only 2 doge were doing most of the work...but they cant..or wont..tell me which ones...LOLJoeyman wrote:video is one of the hardest ways to judge what a dog is really doing. Looks different on video than it does in person.