Dog bites while taking things away?

ohiohunter · Post by **ohiohunter** » Wed Jun 28, 2006 11:27 pm

I have a one year old female that is a great dog. She is very loveable and doesn't have a mean bone in her, but dont try to take anything away from her. She had started a nasty habit of taking things (clothes, trash, etc..) and running away with it. If you catch her and try to take it, she will not let go. Her jaws lock up, and she will even growl if you try to take it. She has even snapped at me three times already and got me pretty bad. Any suggestions?

I posted this in the behavior forum, but thought it would get more views here, so sorry for the double post.

mike crabtree · Post by **mike crabtree** » Wed Jun 28, 2006 11:35 pm

I would slap her across the muzzle hard with an open hand as soon as she starts to growl.

blunder · Post by **blunder** » Wed Jun 28, 2006 11:43 pm

Dealing with possessiveness (sticking) as I call it is an art form, but not all that difficult. The trick is to not fuss around the dogs head or mouth because this will always make the problem worse. Instead, simply run your hand down the dogs side and "tweek" the flap of skin that runs from the rear leg to the dogs belly and say "drop". (the correction is at the other end of the dog and away from it's face)
Disclaimer:: Be careful !! this can really take a dog by surprise, so get your hand out of there fast.

tom

Briarhoppers · Post by **Briarhoppers** » Wed Jun 28, 2006 11:43 pm

I have had success dealing w/ behavior problems in young dogs by grabbing them, flipping them over on their back, holding them down and talking very sternly to them. That is how their mother would deal w/ them. Try it but don't let them get away from you or roll back over until you let them up. Dogs need to know who is the master.
-Pete

Bunny Runner · Post by **Bunny Runner** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 4:29 am

This is called resource guarding. It can lead to a very serious problem if allowed to progress. It is typical pack behavior, but when done with humans, it definately shows that she has placed herself as Alpha of your "pack". A submissive dog would NEVER resource guard.
Never hit or slap a dog to correct behaviors. They don't associate the "pain" with what you really want them to do. Instead, try "trading" offer something she wants more to give up the "prize" she thinks she has won. You should also be practicing taking things away from her BEFORE she runs off with something. Give her praise and treats for "give it". If you do a google search for "resource guarding dog" you should come up with alot of information on this subject.

Good luck and get it "nipped in the bud" as soon as possible.

ohiohunter · Post by **ohiohunter** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 9:03 am

Thank you for all the input. She doesn't do this often, but when she does, she is stubborn. Come to think of it, I have never met a beagle that isn't stubborn lol...

ANTHONY KERR · Post by **ANTHONY KERR** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 9:46 am

My Dad always used rolled up news papers on our shepards when I was young. The noise was worse than the blow. They would nip at you when they got excited. I use a squirt bottle to teach back iat the pen door. May help instead of drastic measures. I had a bad barker and rigged up the water hose, that helped him learn what quiet meant.

bunnie harvester · Post by **bunnie harvester** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 9:58 am

I`m sitting here ROLFLMAO at some of these answers, Mike `s got the true answer, this dog thinks she`s bad A$&*^%$

,,,,,,,,, STOP it NOW,, I`d even put a collar on her and see how she responds..
While in the field all my dogs have on a shock collar and if on picks up trash or trys to eat anything ,,I ask twice for it and if no response then I nip it with the collar ,,so try this,they ALWAYS drop whatever they have........ JMO

S.R.Patch · Post by **S.R.Patch** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 11:04 am

If a hound doesn't want to give up a rabbit, I take my hand above the muzzle, gripping and force the upper lips inbetween my fingers and the hounds upper teeth. This causes the hound to feel the teeth biteing into the upper lips thus causing the hound to open it mouth, at the same time, I order the hound to "GIVE"!
Never pull and fight against a hound as it only encourages resistance. Sounds like your hound is making a game out of this and she's winning...lol

FLABSLAB · Post by **FLABSLAB** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 11:30 am

bunnie harvester wrote:I`m sitting here ROLFLMAO at some of these answers, Mike `s got the true answer, this dog thinks she`s bad A$&*^%$ ,,,,,,,,, STOP it NOW,, I`d even put a collar on her and see how she responds..
While in the field all my dogs have on a shock collar and if on picks up trash or trys to eat anything ,,I ask twice for it and if no response then I nip it with the collar ,,so try this,they ALWAYS drop whatever they have........ JMO

I 100% agree. Juice em up and she'll let go...really quickly too. Hard to hold onto something with your mouth if you're screaming.......

I use shock collars for behavior modification often. I don't believe it causes the dog lasting harm and they don't seem to tie it to the button pusher.

My wife can't get our beagles to do ANYTHING she asks...she will yell and carry on and they just look at her like "yeah, right".

When I speak, they listen. If they don't, they know I'll light em up. It's that simple.

S.R.Patch · Post by **S.R.Patch** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 12:56 pm

Doesn't that mean their associating the shock with the "buttton pusher"?

Your right though, voice and tone have alot to do with whether hounds listen or not...

... (brings back thoughts of terror from my childhood...

)

blunder · Post by **blunder** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 1:37 pm

I would slap her across the muzzle hard with an open hand as soon as she starts to growl

And now you have a hand shy dog

I have had success dealing w/ behavior problems in young dogs by grabbing them, flipping them over on their back, holding them down and talking very sternly to them

If the dog is displaying other "Alpha Dog" symtoms, maybe, but you might get your nose bit

This is called resource guarding

Maybe, but not always. (see above)

My Dad always used rolled up news papers on our shepards when I was young.

Same as a swat with the hand

While in the field all my dogs have on a shock collar

As do mine, but just because I'm tough doesn't mean I take it out on my dogs

If a hound doesn't want to give up a rabbit, I take my hand above the muzzle, gripping and force the upper lips inbetween my fingers and the hounds upper teeth. This causes the hound to feel the teeth biteing into the upper lips thus causing the hound to open it mouth, at the same time, I order the hound to "GIVE"!
Never pull and fight against a hound as it only encourages resistance. Sounds like your hound is making a game out of this and she's winning...lol

Good answer,, except at the first sign of the problem getting worse instead of better, move the correction away from the face.

Next one doesn't need a responce
I do teach collar conditioning classes tho'
(also a tri-Tronics dlr)

tom

Bunny Runner · Post by **Bunny Runner** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 6:17 pm

This is called resource guarding

Maybe, but not always. (see above)

Usually (accoding to my animal behavior classes I have taken in college), resource guarders DO consider themselves (or at least trying to establish themselves as) alpha of their pack.

blunder · Post by **blunder** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 8:08 pm

Bunny Runner wrote:
This is called resource guarding
Maybe, but not always. (see above)

Usually (accoding to my animal behavior classes I have taken in college), resource guarders DO consider themselves (or at least trying to establish themselves as) alpha of their pack.

Exactly,
What I am saying tho' is that often a dog is not resource guarding, and the way to tell if it is will be the demonstration of other Alpha behavior.
With the absence of other alpha behavior, the dog is probably a true "sticker" (which is a common attention disorder) and then the proper way to deal with the problem is to divert their attention away from the problem rather than correcting the problem directly. Correcting directly makes them "stick" worse.
Because of the size of a Beagle, most guys just give them a swat and take the item away from them, without ever knowing that there is an actual (corectable) problem.
Here is a pic of a friends Chessie, even tho' Bear was an AKC Master Hunter, he was a true "sticker", would anyone like to swat him across the nose and try to take something away from him??????
Fabulous hunting dog tho'

tom

Hunter · Post by **Hunter** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 8:53 pm

OHH Man,
Flabslab I knew that was you halfway through the post. Sure enough looked back to see who the poster was and lo and behold. Bottom line the Hound HAS TO KNOW WHO THE BOSS IS. I have corrected with stern voice, shock collar, smacking, grabbing firmly and scolding, picking up by the scruff of the neck and even rolling the dog on its back and biting its ear just enough so they feel it(LOL). Agian Bottom line ....YOU HAVE TO BE THE ALPHA. All dogs have different personalities and will require different techniques. JMO, Hunter